Sunday, 9 October 2011

My Impending Silence


Ok. This is going to be my last post for a while and here’s why:

This week I am attending a 4 live-in day training seminar run by the UNHCR on humanitarian negotiations, and then on Friday night I am off to Bangkok to catch a flight on Saturday to New York to meet 6 of my favourite people in the world and travel around with them for three weeks. 

So, as far as these magic postcards go, I might write some while I’m in the USA, but I’m not sure, there are a lot of factors to take into consideration, like how many hours spent in the van each day, and whose floor we’re sleeping on on any given night. So check back here occasionally if you’re interested in shenanigans only possibly when you cram 6 New Zealanders, 1 Texan, several guitars and an accordion into a small van that will travel the east coast of the USA on a budget of $0 per day. Oh, the band's I'm touring with are The Outsiders (click here)and Freddy Fudd Pucker, in case you're interested. They're pretty great, but then again, I'm pretty biased.

I'm aware this is sideways, but I can't figure out how to rotate it
As promised, here is a picture of me trying to play golf last weekend. Do not be fooled, that sweet looking muscle is a mere illusion, and I am a very bad golfer, despite what this picture may or may not depict.

Right, I have a massive amount of work to get finished before I go away, and since this UN training thing has only just been offered to me in the last 12 hours, I need to try and cram 5 day worth of work into Sunday afternoon, and I’d also like to fit in a swim if possible because it is very very hot today. 

So ka kite ano, talk to you in a month!

Monday, 3 October 2011

Living in Reality


Helping teach drums to kids in the Child Recreation Centre
This past weekend was probably the best one I’ve had in Mae Sot to date. A friend of mine here is going home to the USA tomorrow (sob), so the weekend was basically just filled with whatever she wanted to do. Highlights include a Cowboy and Indian themed Thai restaurant, complete with a Saloon and horses, Bloody Mary’s, Margaritas and whacking balls at the driving range. I couldn’t deal with going to the sauna with the others, it was too hot, I needed it to have a/c, which would have defeated the purpose I suppose.

There are photos of aforementioned ball whacking, when I track them down I’ll post some here, so if me making a fool of myself is something that interests you, check back in a couple of days. As I usually assume when I try something new, I thought I’d be an instant natural at golf; but as per usual, it turns out I am very bad at it. And who knew how much physical exertion it takes to whack tiny golf balls? Today I have sore muscles in some places I didn’t even know existed. But don’t you worry, we are going to persevere with this new-found fun, and next time you see me, I’ll be a golfing pro.

Clucking over an abandoned baby
Right, it has come to my attention that some of you imagine me to be living in a grass hut in the middle of a paddy field, sharing a bed with refugees, with a war raging around me. So, it’s time to squash some of these images, as this is not at all what my life is like. 

I live in a little two bedroom apartment with an Australian woman. It’s a really nice house – I have a proper bed, we have hot water, wireless internet, a TV and even a cleaning lady! Incidently, I do live right next door to a large rice paddy. As far as the conflict situation goes, well, there is not fighting going on around me. There is a lot of fighting going on inside Burma, up and down the border. Since I’ve been here, the closest it’s gotten to me is 15kms from Myawaddy, which is the Burmese town on the other side of the river to Mae Sot; Myawaddy is around 5kms from my house. Occasionally some of the thunder is so epic that I do a double take and have momentary thoughts of it being shelling. 

In November last year, after the “elections” held by the Burmese “government”, there was a lot of fighting in the actual township of Myawaddy, and there were a couple of stray shells that landed on the Thai side, around Mae Sot. Approximately 20,000 Burmese people fled across the border into Thailand during the fighting, with the majority coming to Mae Sot. The Clinic and our schools turned into make-shift refugee camps. Most of those people have been able to return home to Burma, but there are still around 7000 refugees from November in hiding up and down the border, that we are supporting with rice etc. It is anticipated that there will be more fighting at the end of the rainy season, which is just ending now (yay!), so who knows what the next few months will bring. 

As for the refugee situation in town, well, the closest refugee camps are about an hour out of town, and technically, all the registered refugees are meant to be in them at all times. But in reality, this is not the case, although there is a bit of a crackdown going on at the moment, so some people are finding it harder to get in and out. There are Burmese people all over town, living, working and just going about their daily business. Some of them are here legally; they might have a Burmese passport and a legitimate Thai visa, some have no passport but have a work permit to allow them to work in one of the many factories in town. Then there are others who are just straight up illegal – they have crossed the border illegally and may be working here or whatever, these people are particularly prone to mistreatment by the police on a regular basis. There are also refugees registered with the UN or IRC that are kicking about town, not living in a camp at the moment, although they will be registered at one. Short of asking people directly, however, there is no way of knowing anyone’s status in town. And clearly, asking people is neither appropriate nor necessary. 

There are checkpoints at on all the roads to and from Mae Sot, with armed guards that check the people going through them. They don’t care so much about people coming into Mae Sot, but whenever I leave, the bus stops at about 4 checkpoints, particularly on the road to Bangkok. Obviously, they are looking for illegal Burmese people. Often one or two people are taken off the bus on a trip to Bangkok, it’s pretty sad. They will generally be forced to pay a big bribe, or be imprisoned until someone can pay for them to get out, and if they have no money whatsoever, they will probably be sent back to Burma.

Swimming at the reservoir
And finally, who are the people that come into the clinic each day? Well, about 40-60% of them cross the border illegally each day to get here. So they come from inside Burma. Often people travel very long distances to get here, with the entire family in tow, in case they cannot return home, or their village is attacked etc. and they get separated. So they are not all from the Karen State, but from all over Burma. Each refugee camp has its own basic medical facilities, so we don’t get that many registered refugees, although we do still get quite a few. Many of our patients are Internally Displaced People in Burma, which more or less means they are refugees, except you cannot officially be a refugee if you still live inside your country. The other half of the people that make up the caseload at the Clinic are the Burmese workers that live in the Mae Sot area. They either cannot afford or cannot access the Thai healthcare system due to their legal status in Thailand. If you want to learn more about the Clinic, check this out.

So there we have it. I don’t live in the middle of a rice paddy in a hut, and there is not constant conflict going on around me. Though I’ve yet to witness any conflict, and I hope for the sake of everyone around me that I never do, it is quite strange to be living in a place in which particularly loud thunder can be misconstrued as a bomb blast. Occasionally I can hear gunshots at night, so it’s hard to know what’s going on sometimes, but don’t worry about me! Even though the prospect of conflict is real, I’ll be fine; the fighting doesn’t really come across the border!

PS: I got my enrolment confirmation in the mail on Friday. I hope you took heed of my rant the other day and enrolled! The election is next month!